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Over the weekend, an employee at Blommer Chocolate died allegedly from “ammonia-like gas.” This is really such a tragedy, I just hate hearing about people in my industry getting injured or killed. The Chicago Sun-Times article reporting about it is rife with statements bordering libel. It’s either intentionally misleading or a stupid person wrote it.

Says the article:
“About 11 a.m., fire personnel initiated a Level 2 hazardous materials response in the factory, at 600 W. Kinzie St., after fumes overcame employees working in the factory when a powdery substance used in the chocolate gave off an “ammonia-like gas,” Fire Media Affairs spokesman Rich Rosado said.”

The “powdery substance” they refer to is also known as cocoa powder. It’s true that certain cocoa powders do need processing agents in order to make them alkalized, which are typically ammonium bicarbonate and potassium carbonate. Are these substances potentially harmful if used improperly? Yes. This is why safety measures required to handle them, which I can tell you are in place.

Many chocolatiers use these processing agents and sell products that are made with “liquor* processed with alkali,” such as Godiva, Hershey and Mars. Oreo cookies are made with alkalized cocoa powder. The use of alkalized liquor or powder does not mean that a product is bad or harmful for you to eat, but it does make it less health-beneficial by decreasing antioxidants naturally occurring in chocolate to virtually nil.

So why use alkali at all? Chocolate is naturally acidic so in order to make it close to neutral, alkalizing agents used. This gives it a different flavor and color ranging from dark brown to red to black. This process in cocoa powders is also known as dutching, so named after its inventor, Coenraad Johannes van Houten, a Dutch man. Dutched cocoa powder will react differently than natural cocoa powder when used in recipes, so make sure you follow the recipe or feel free to experiment for a different flavor and adjust the leavening agent levels.

*Liquor here means the thick liquid that you get from grinding cocoa beans, not booze. It is very bitter for people unaccustomed to tasting it